How to Style a Trench Coat?

upscale men wearing a trench coat

In the ever-evolving world of men’s fashion, few pieces have stood the test of time quite like the trench coat. A staple that effortlessly merges form with function, learning how to properly style a trench can elevate any ensemble. The trench coat, with its roots in military history, has today become an indispensable item in the wardrobes of style-conscious individuals worldwide. Especially when we talk about trench coat for men, the versatility and timeless elegance it offers are unparalleled. Dive in as we unpack the secrets to making the most of this iconic piece.


1. Choose the Right Fit:

The essence of any outfit is how well it fits, and the trench coat is no exception. Here are some nuanced points on achieving the perfect fit:

  • Length: Traditionally, the trench coat is designed to reach just above the knee. This ensures protection from the elements while maintaining mobility. However, shorter styles that hit at mid-thigh can be more modern and versatile. Decide based on your personal style and body type. If you’re taller, a longer trench can be more proportional, whereas a shorter coat can complement a more compact stature.
  • Shoulders: The shoulder seams of the coat should sit perfectly at the edge of your shoulders. If they extend beyond, the coat will look oversized; if they sit before the edge, the coat may be uncomfortably tight. A well-fitted shoulder ensures ease of movement and a neat appearance.
  • Waist: A trench coat is often designed with a belt. While wearing it, the waist shouldn’t appear bulky, nor should the coat look boxy. If you’re cinching the belt, it should create a subtle taper that enhances your natural silhouette without looking too restrictive.
  • Sleeve Length: The sleeves should end just at the base of your thumb when your arms are at your sides. This ensures that your wrists and part of your hands are covered, offering protection while allowing easy access to gloves or watches.

2. The Classic Look:

When people think of a trench coat, the classic, polished look often comes to mind. Here’s how to perfect it:

  • White Shirt: The white shirt is timeless and creates a neutral base that allows the trench coat to shine. Ensure your shirt is well-pressed and fits comfortably without any visible strains or gaps.
  • Tailored Trousers: These are a mainstay for formal attire. Whether you opt for a deep navy, charcoal gray, or classic black, the key is the fit. They should sit comfortably at the waist and have a straight or slightly tapered cut. Avoid trousers that are too baggy or too skinny.
  • Leather Shoes: A good pair of leather shoes can elevate your look instantly. Loafers and brogues offer a balance between formality and style. They should be well-polished and in good condition to complement the sophisticated aura of the trench.

3. Casual Elegance:

For those days when you want the sophistication of a trench without the formality, here’s how to strike the balance:

  • T-Shirt or Lightweight Sweater: Opt for solid colors or minimal patterns to keep the look clean. Neutral tones like grays, blacks, and navies work best, but a pop of muted color like olive or maroon can also add character.
  • Slim Jeans or Chinos: While jeans can be casual, ensuring they’re of a slim cut can keep the outfit from looking sloppy. Chinos, being slightly more formal than jeans but less so than trousers, are a great middle-ground. Choose earth tones or muted colors to maintain the elegant vibe.
  • Casual Footwear: Desert boots or clean, minimalist sneakers can add a modern touch. Ensure they’re in good condition and free of major scuffs or stains.

4. Layer Up:

The trench coat is not just an outermost layer; it’s a fashion piece that can harmonize with what’s worn underneath. Here’s how to get layering right:

  • Over a Suit: A trench coat provides a protective, stylish layer over a business suit, especially during cooler months or unexpected rain. It’s essential the coat is roomy enough to not crinkle the suit but streamlined enough to not look baggy.
  • Turtleneck: This is a winter favorite. A slim-fitting turtleneck sweater under a trench coat exudes European sophistication. Opt for deeper colors like burgundy, forest green, or navy for a cohesive look.
  • Blazers & Sport Coats: For those cooler days, layering a blazer under your trench can add depth and interest to your ensemble. Ensure the trench’s collar and lapels sit nicely over the blazer, and that there isn’t too much bulk.
  • Vests: A lightweight vest can be a stylish layer beneath a trench coat, offering an interesting visual break when the coat is open while also adding warmth.

5. Color Coordination:

While a trench coat is often the focal point of an outfit, its color should harmonize with the rest of your ensemble. Here’s a breakdown:

  • Beige Trench: The most traditional color. Pair with navy, browns, whites, and other neutral colors for a classic look.
  • Navy or Black Trench: These can be more formal or edgy. Coordinate with monochrome outfits or with contrasting lighter colors for a modern appearance.
  • Deep Greens or Browns: These are unconventional but can be very stylish. They work well with earth tones, creams, and even certain shades of red or burgundy.
  • Monochrome vs. Contrast: Aim for a monochrome palette if you want a seamless, elongated look. However, employ contrasting colors that complement each other for a standout statement.

6. Accessorize:

Even though the trench coat is a statement piece, accessories can enhance its appeal and add personal flair:

  • Scarves: A well-chosen scarf can elevate the trench coat’s appearance. Whether it’s a thick wool scarf for winter or a lightweight patterned one for spring, it should be draped or knotted in a way that complements the coat’s style.
  • Leather Gloves: These are both functional and stylish. Black or brown leather gloves are versatile, but don’t shy away from colors like burgundy or deep green for a unique touch.
  • Watches: With the trench coat’s sleeves often revealing the wrist, a statement watch can shine. Depending on the occasion, opt for a sophisticated dress watch or a more rugged, sporty timepiece.
  • Hats: While not as commonly worn today, hats can bring an old-world charm to the trench coat ensemble. Fedora, flat cap, or even a beanie for a more relaxed look can work.

Remember, with layering, color coordination, and accessorizing, the aim is to balance the overall appearance. Each element should complement the trench coat and the outfit underneath without overpowering it.


7. Footwear Matters:

Footwear can make or break an outfit. With a trench coat, the choice of shoes can determine the overall vibe of the ensemble. Here’s how to match your footwear with your trench:

  • Formal Events: Oxfords, with their closed lacing, are a top choice. Their sleek design can elevate the overall look, especially with a well-fitted suit and a classic trench coat. With their distinct buckles, Monk straps also offer a polished appearance while making a subtle statement.
  • Smart Casual: Brogues are versatile. Whether wingtip or cap-toe, their decorative perforations can add a touch of character without compromising elegance. Pair them with chinos or tailored trousers and your trench for a balanced outfit.
  • Casual Settings: Desert boots or Chelsea boots can dial down the formality but still maintain a refined look. Pair them with jeans or casual pants. Clean, minimalist sneakers in leather or high-quality canvas can also work, especially with a shorter trench and a more relaxed outfit beneath.
  • Weather Considerations: In wet conditions, consider stylish waterproof boots that complement the trench’s protective nature. For colder climates, insulated yet fashionable boots can keep you warm without sacrificing style.

8. Opt for Different Textures:

Playing with textures can add depth and interest to your outfit, allowing individual pieces to stand out and yet harmoniously blend together:

  • Trench Textures: While most trenches come in a smooth cotton gabardine, there are variants in heavier wool blends or even suede. Picking a trench with a distinct texture can set your coat apart.
  • Mixing with Clothing: Pair a cotton trench with a cable-knit sweater underneath to introduce a tactile contrast. If wearing a wool-textured trench, a smoother silk or fine cotton shirt can create a compelling visual disparity.
  • Pants and Footwear: Corduroy trousers, with their ribbed texture, can add an additional layer of depth when visible beneath the smooth finish of a classic trench. Likewise, suede shoes or boots can offer a textural contrast to the ensemble.
  • Accessories: Textured ties, scarves, or even textured leather belts and gloves can be integrated for added complexity. A tweed flat cap, for instance, can introduce a countryside charm to the city-centric trench coat.

9. Play with Patterns:

Incorporating patterns can breathe life into an outfit, introducing an element of fun, sophistication, or even drama. Here’s how you can experiment with patterns alongside your trench coat:

  • Patterned Trench Coats: While the solid-colored trench coat is the most classic choice, designers often introduce patterns like checks, stripes, or herringbone. Remember to keep the rest of your outfit relatively subdued to avoid visual chaos if you opt for a patterned trench.
  • Shirts and Sweaters: Introducing patterns through your underlayers can be a subtle yet effective style choice. Think striped shirts, checkered blazers, or Fair Isle sweaters. When your trench is open, these patterns can peek through, adding a layer of intrigue.
  • Trousers: Patterned trousers, like pinstripes or subtle plaids, can work wonderfully, especially if your trench coat and top are solid colors. This provides balance and ensures one element doesn’t overshadow the other.
  • Accessories: These are excellent vehicles for introducing patterns without committing fully. Patterned scarves, ties, or even socks can give that pop of design that stands out, especially when the rest of the outfit is more muted.

Remember, the key to patterns is balance. Too many conflicting patterns can be overwhelming to the eye, so ensuring each patterned piece complements rather than clashes with the others is essential.


10. Care for Your Trench:

Ensuring your trench coat remains pristine is crucial, not just for aesthetics but also to extend its longevity. Proper care can mean the difference between a coat that lasts a couple of seasons and one that remains timeless for decades.

  • Cleaning: Always check the care label on your trench coat before cleaning. While some may be machine washable, others might require dry cleaning. In the case of spills or minor stains, spot clean immediately to prevent permanent staining.
  • Storage: Store your trench coat on a broad, padded hanger to maintain its shape. Avoid cramming it in a tight closet; it needs space to breathe. If storing it for longer periods (like during off-seasons), consider using a garment bag for added protection.
  • Water Exposure: While many trench coats are designed to be water-resistant, if yours gets wet, let it dry naturally away from direct heat sources. This prevents the fabric from becoming overly dry or damaged.
  • Maintenance: Periodically check for any loose buttons or minor tears and address them immediately. This not only ensures your coat looks its best but also prevents minor issues from turning into significant problems.
  • Refreshing the Fabric: Over time, water-resistant properties can diminish. Consider using fabric sprays designed to rejuvenate these properties every once in a while, ensuring your trench remains functional in unpredictable weather.

From classic Hollywood actors to modern-day influencers, the allure of the trench coat remains unchallenged. Whether you’re aiming for a casual look or gearing up for a more formal occasion, understanding how to style a trench is crucial for every fashion-forward man. The trench coat for men isn’t merely a garment; it’s a statement, a legacy piece that resonates with sartorial elegance. Armed with the insights provided, you’re now ready to channel the timeless charm of the trench, ensuring you always step out in style.

Mo Mulchandani

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